Monday, 26 November 2012

Masterchef : The Professionals Season 5 Episode 12 The Critics




Six remained on the final day of this weeks Masterchef but only two could qualify for the semi-final. Michel and Greg were cleareverybody had toup their game. And they didn't mean throwing partridge in the air.
         
 First up was the creative test where the chefs were confronted by a massive choice of ingredients and asked to cook something from it. This differed so hugely from the other tasks where they bring their ingredients with them that I almost couldn't tell the difference. But when you've got a format to drag out then any twist however tiny can be justified.
          
The chefs set to cooking and the programme makers set to reminding us who they all were with a mixture of backstage vignettes where they all pretty much said exactly the same thing i.e.how much it would mean to gain the approbation of a figure like Michel Roux Jrand all pretty much didn't say exactly the same thing i.e.how much it would mean to receive the approbation of Greg Wallace.
          
Greg normally resolves the problem of the fact that none of the contestants gives a fig what he thinks by rephrasing whatever Michel says and occasionally adding the wordmate. However, when it came to Eager Aaron, Greg took the radical step of having a contrary opinion. What had caused this boldness? Aaron had taken a truly shocking actionhe had chosen to serve a vegetarian dish. Greg's response was clear and condemnatory. It appeared that as far as he was concerned going vegetarian is the Masterchef equivalent of joining Al Qaida and Greg Wallace is not one to negotiate with terrorists. Fortunately for Aaron, unlike Obama, Greg does not have access to drones.
          
Even more fortunately for Aaron, Michel quite obviously loved his stuff so the horror of a greengrocer at the serving of vegetables was not certain to be his undoing. Even more fortunately, Lanky Alan proved to be all presentation and no flavour and Hollow-Eyed Martin produced a cheesecake that looked like the bomb that Greg would have wanted to drop on Aaron's vegetables had hit it instead.
          
Bland Thomas, Assured Alec, Self-doubting Michael (who was beginning to show signs of self-belief – at least a little bit) and Eager Aaron advanced to cook for the critics.
          
In came the critics for their dinners. First we had Tracey Macleod who I last saw presenting the Late Show and so is someone who knows everything there is to know about serving up tripe. Then there was Charles Pompous Prat (sorry forgot his last name so gave him a new and more appropriate one). Charles offered the standard dishonest critics plea that all he was searching for wassimple, honest food. Ignoring for a moment what a dishonest food might be...no I can't...are garlic mushrooms liars? What exactly is that  moussaka hiding? would you trust a quiche with your credit card?
          
Enough Charlessimple, honestgambit is a disingenous load of tosh. He knows full well the nature of the competition is aboutfinedining and that the chefs are going to have to try and stand out and impress. They could serve up the most perfect spaghetti bolognese ever made and they would get knocked out. His approach is like a judge turning up at the Olympic diving competition and saying all he wanted to see wassimple, honest,diving and none of those tucks, spins or pikes.
          
The third critic was Jay Rayner. It doesn't take a brilliant psychiatrist to spot that Jay is going through a mid-life crisis. Now, there is nothing wrong with going through a mid-life crisis (I'm currently doing it myself) but there really is no need to actually grow it on your face so everybody can see. 
          
First up was Bland Thomas. And he was first out too. He had a complete nightmare culminating in being forced to apologise for burning his shortbread. Reality shows try their best to preserve some tension even when none exists but even they couldn't manage it here. All that was left was for the critics to verbally dance on his grave.
          
Next up was Assured Alec. Jay consulted his menu.Sounds like fish and chips to me,he observed in what passes for Wildean wit in restaurant critic circles. Hearing this, Tracey spoke for the critics, announcing that therefore Assured Alec was going to have cook his dish absolutely perfectly (the strong implication being - even better than the standard the other chefs were required to reach). The reason for this was unspoken but understood by all three of them. Assured Alec had to reach a higher standard because he was having the gall to serve the type of food that poor people might eat. And if restaurant critics were going to be expected to eat the same basic ingredients as poor people : fish! potatoes! peas!  then it had better be done a damn sight better than any poor person had ever seen it. So much forsimple, honest food.
          
Assured Alec followed it up with a liquid chocolate cake.Indulge me,began Jay. (Yes, Jay is sort of the person who prefaces a question by sayingindulge me.) I confess to not hearing the question that followed because I was bellowing at the screen.You are being paid to eat! You are already being indulged, you fuzzy faced fop!
          
Next came Ex-self-doubting Michael. His menu featured wild pickings. I didn't know what they were but from the tired sighs of the critics it was obvious they did. They were faddish apparently. And oh how our long-suffering critics hated fads (they were all channelling thesimple, honest foodguff by now). Their tired sighs did not bode well for Michael. His ex-self-doubtingness looked like it might be short-lived.
          
Especially with Michel's favourite Eager Aaron up next. He did a witty take on the roast chicken dinnerone of the less witty bits being that some of it wasn't cooked. Tracey decided she wasn't going to risk eating it and I didn't blame her. Then he deconstructed a banoffi pie and seemed to have removed all the taste from it in the process.
          
Poor old Michel was faced with a bit of a problem. He wanted Eager Adam through to the semi-final but his protege had received a bit of a drubbing from the critics. And the name of the round was The Critics so surely their opinion was going to matter. Er..not so much.  Michel tasted Aaron's dishes and  tactfully observed that the chickencould have perhaps done with a little more cookingand the dessert wassubtle.And on these carefully selected words did Eager Aaron slide through to join Assured Alec in the semi-finals. Language is a slippery medium as the critics could doubtless tell you.
         

Thursday, 22 November 2012

Masterchef The Professionals Season 5 Episode 11



Today’s episode followed the same structure as yesterday’s. We were reminded briefly of the five chefs : Eager Aaron, Assured Alec, Chisselled Alessandro, French George and Hollow-Eyed Martin and then we dove straight into the tests.

Yesterday’s group had definitely got the better deal when it came to the skills test. Today’s group were faced with a kidney. At least, Greg assured them it was a kidney and they had to take his word for it because it was surrounded by so much flabby fat that the cow it came from must have been fed exclusively on pate fois gras. Either that or hay has got way more cholesterol than I ever suspected.

The blubber didn’t stop the chefs though who dug through the white outer yuck to reveal the dark fleshy kidney below and put many a young viewer off the idea of a career in plastic surgery in the process. I say the challenge didn’t stop the chefs and it didn’t. But it did slow down one of them. Chisselled Alessandro from Italy. Doubtless brought up on the Mediterranean diet the toughest skin he’d ever had to peel off probably belonged to a sun dried tomato. Faced with this slab of British grease he was nonplussed. He set to work gamely enough but he lacked the brute butcher’s bravado of the others and attempted to liberate his kidney with delicate snips of the kitchen scissors. The result was his kidney was able to proclaim itself “Free at Last” after eleven minutes of the twelve allotted for the task.

Even Jamie Oliver’s next recipe book which, it is rumoured, goes by the working title of Super Speedy Suppers That Are Ready Before You’ve Begun Preparing Them would have struggled to get the kidney edible in one minute. And Alessandro duly didn’t. Greg gave him an extra six minutes which I thought was a shame. Mainly because having been compelled to see so many of Greg’s fake expressions of shock and disgust I’d like to have seen him eat it and produce a real one.

So it was Arriverdeci Alessandro who headed back to the Tuscan hills or Basingstoke. And it was Bonjour to Michel who instructed the remaining chefs to make a classic fish stew which in French is known as un classic fish stew (All right I’ve forgotten its real name). Things didn’t go entirely to plan. Assured Alec made a great stew but served it on a plate (the first error I’ve seen that even I would have avoided). The look of Eager Aaron’s dish was more bacon stew than fish stew with lardons that were more like largeons. French George produced what seemed to be watery nuclear waste and Hollow-Eyed Martin made it clear he hadn’t been lying when he said his strengths were desserts.

But Michel is too nice a bloke to make them feel really bad. Even when finding a fish bone in his whiskers the most he offered was a clipped “It shouldn’t happen.”

On to the final test when the four chefs cook their signature dish and it all began to go wrong for Assured Alec who up until this moment had been sailing through (plate mistake aside). His mysterious decision to deconstruct the paella…that’s right deconstruct the paella because what every dish that works by being a hearty mixture of gutsy flavours and textures really wants is someone to take those ingredients apart and serve them individually. Anyway it resulted in him serving fish on one plate with an accompaniment of yellow rice in a storage jar. That’s right a storage jar. And then he lost control of his squeezy bottle and sent squid ink  and anchovy paste everywhere. It was comedy gold. Unless you were Alec.

For the first time worry creased the five star executive chef’s brow. Alec needed someone to make a mistake. Eager Adam put up delicious ravioli and Hollow-Eyed Martin produced his own perfect take on black forest gateaux. There was only French George left. And he…he…overcooked his lamb. Assured Alec was Reassured Alec and French George put his whites back in the cupboard. Tomorrow, the critics.